Sunday birdwatching at Niah NP, IBA

For those who are not aware, Niah NP is one of the IBA in Northern Division, MY50. The others are Lambir Hills NP (MY51), Similajau NP (MY49) , Mulu NP (MY53), Loagan Bunut NP (MY52) and the Kelabit Highlands (MY54).

Important Bird Areas (IBAs) are sites of international importance for bird conservation at the global, regional or national level, based upon standard, internationally recognised criteria. IBAs are not only important for birds, but typically support awide range of other important flora and fauna species. Furthermore, many IBAs are also significant for human welfare and economic well being through protecting catchments, providing flood control or as a source of natural resources.


Google map of a section of Niah Caves National Park. We birdwatched along the river from Park HQ to Batu Niah town, a distance of 3km on relatively flat concrete pathway.

The following few paragraphs are from the "Directory of Important Bird Areas in Malaysia", MNS Conservation Publication No. 8.

Niah NP itself supports 7 globally threatened species. The Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster, Grey-headed Ichthyophaga ichthyaetusand Lesser Fish-Eagles I. humilis (all near-threatened) have also been recorded in the area. The following is from "Directory of Important Bird Areas in Malaysia".

Globally Threatened species which has been recorded in the park:

a) Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle (VU) Spizaetus nanus (SFD 2002a).
b) Large Green Pigeon (VU) Treron capellei (Sebastian 1984-1987 ).
c) Short-toed Coucal (VU) Centropus rectunguis (Sebastian 1984-87, 2002)
d) Blue-headed Pitta (VU) Pitta baudii (SFD 2002a).
e) Straw-headed Bulbul (VU) Pycnonotus zeylanicus (SFD 2002a).
f) Hook-billed Bulbul (VU) Setornis criniger (SFD 2002a).
g) Large-billed Blue Flycatcher (VU) Cyornis caerulatus (SFD 2002a).

Two hundred and forty-one (241) species of birds have been recorded in and within the immediate vicinity of the national park (Gregory-Smith 1996; Marduka 2001; Sarawak Forest Department 2002; Smythies 1999). Niah Caves itself harbour great populations of swiftlets in its chambers. The swiftlet population, consists of the White-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphaga, Black-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus maximus and Mossy-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus salaganus.

Come to think of it, our group has not quite done a proper job of birdwatching at Niah NP. It's always either to go to Niah Caves NP to explore the limestone caves, check out the insects along the plankwalk or climb Bukit Kasut ... and birdwatch along the way, on the side, never the main event. Perhaps we are just spoilt for choice as far as birdwatching locations are concerned.

Past Sunday, we tried to gather as many of our small Miri Branch birdgroup for a spot of birdwatching-only outing at the park. "As many" didn't turn out to be as many as we had expected.

Sian's got work, Sara's away, Musa's off possibly fishing, Steve's away to attend to some major snafu in Labuan. None of the Curtin birders were anywhere to seen or heard from ... possibly stumped with homework. We ended up with a motley crew of Clare, Rosie, Amer and yours truly. And not to forget, two very junior birders in the form of pint size Aisya and not so pintsize Ali.

Since we were birdwatching on this side of the river ie. along it, outside the park per say, we didn't have to pay the required entrance fee to the park! Yes, it was free!!!

Niah River meanders thru the park to form the boundary between park headquarters and the park grounds proper. There's a well-used (used to be) path from the park hq to Batu Niah town right alongside the river banks, it's concrete all the way to Batu Niah. This path was our target this time around. All 3 kms of it.

The trailhead from Batu Niah entrance ... concrete all the way to the park, interspersed with fruit orchards and a few village houses.

... and friendly dogs.

Having birdwatched in Niah before, we noticed how much harder it was to pick out birds from dense foliage within the park itself, you can always hear the birds but hardly ever see them without putting a real effort. The Chestnut-rumped Babbler we ticked off previously on a preivious visit was called out before we had a good positive look at it.

Along this path however, they are numerous breaks in the forest cover along the way, the first kilometer is probably the most fruitful for birds being a distance away from the kampung and still retaining some of the original riverine cover. The rest is an easy trek to Batu Niah.

We took almost two hours to complete the full trail, spending time spying for birds along the way. The walk back to the park from Batu Niah took us a full 20 minutes to the park headquarters, without the birdwatching of course.

The first patch just outside the back fences of the park boundary was actually a cleared forest planted with fruit trees such as nangka, cempedak, tarap and the like. There were still a few stands of large original cover. This was perhaps the most productive spot being rather bright.

We have spotted the following birds in this area: broadbills, spiderhunter, drongos (2 species), treeswift, bulbul, hornbill, barbet, fantail and numerous sunbirds.

On this particular outing we sighted Scarlet minivet (a group of 3 individuals male, female and a likely juvenile); Pacific swallow, Cream-vented bulbul, and Yellow-vented bulbul. We heard Common tailorbird, barbet sp., fantail sp., drongo sp. and broadbill sp. but were unable to locate where they were calling from. The barbet was definitely high up in the tall trees.

As we moved further into the shadier trails, we spotted a bird we have not seen before for a while. After much peering into the dark foliage, we made out at least three birds. Upon further examination we had a good look at two of the birds. One individual decided to fly across the Niah river.

The ones that stayed behind were positively id as a resplendent male Diarde's Trogon and a slightly smaller Scarlet-rumped Trogon. We surmised that the third that flew away was also a Scarlet-rumped Trogon based on it's call. What are the odds of that? Both birds were lifers for Rosie and Amer.

As we walked on further thinking the day could not get any better we stumbled upon a group of babblers stealthily moving inside the fairly dense foliage next to the trail. We almost did not bother until we heard the sounds of juveniles nearby.

Upon closer look indeed it was confirmed that one of the adults birds was feeding young inconspicously hidden behind some leaves inside a nest. The bird kept flying in and out of something which looked more like a clump of brown dead leaves than a babbler's nest. We confirmed id as Chestnut-winged Babbler having been given full view of the adult birds as it flew in and out to feed the youngins. We were completely stoked by then.


In that clump of dry leaves precariously hanging on live twigs is a Chestnut-winged Babbler's nest. Juveniles were heard from inside as adults birds flit in and out bringing morsels of food (looks to be caterpillars).

The rest of the walk to Batu Niah was not as eventful other than several squirels playing catch and several appearances of the ever present Cream-vented Bulbul across our path. As we moved closer towards Batu Niah, the vegetation turned to oil palm, and more fruit trees mostly of rambutan, durians and tarap.

The short but sweet birdwatching outing at Niah NP ended with hearty lunch and ABC for desert at Batu Niah town.

Though we did not tick any of the globally threatened species listed above this time around, we will definitely do this trail again if only for the trogons and babblers we spotted! On second thoughts, the Blue headed Pitta could just be the reason to go back and soon.

MNS Miri, Nov 2009

Scrambling up Bukit Kasut, Niah National Park

On 1st June 2009, two MNS Miri members decided to check out Madu and Bukit Kasut trails in Niah Caves National Park as part of a recce in preparation for our upcoming post trip event in conjunction with 62nd MNS National AGM to be held in Miri 3rd week September 2009.

The start of Madu trail is about 900m of comfortable stroll on plank walk and cement path from the archaeology museum opposite Park HQ across the Niah River. Madu trail follows Sg Subis – a small tributary of the mightier Sg Niah, and skirts along the western side of Subis Limestone, all the way up to Bukit Kasut trail. This particular forest trail can be wet and very muddy especially during the rainy season or after especially heavy downpour, many less fortunate souls have returned with one trekking shoe short. We picked a day that was relatively dry thus making our small adventure all the more enjoyable.

The forest habitat here is mainly riverine (or alluvial), peat swamp and limestone vegetation. We had the opportunity to cross Sg Subis at several places along the trail, on all accounts the view is most scenic and calming typical of any other rainforest enclaves we have come to know. Typical great examples of huge buttress roots and strangler figs can also be seen in many places along the trail. The air is filled with a cacophony of unfamiliar sounds. We heard plenty of birdcalls which indicated that this is a super place for birdwatching. Just a day before a separate party of MNS Miri members photographed and recorded the enigmatic calls of the Chestnut-rumped Babbler not far from here (article below). Continuous chirping of crickets and other insects filled the air. Those with an affinity for carbonates will be happy here. This forest trail offers a lot in terms of depositional carbonate structures, well-preserved with all the erosional imprints (rainwater, river and sea waves) from ages gone by. Clear carbonate depositional sequences can be observed along the trail at very close quarters.

The first 20 minutes of Bukit Kasut trail to the foothill of Bukit Kasut is flat similar Madu trail. The limestone hill is not considered high at 205m but it is very steep and presents a good challenge to any beginner to moderate climbers. Towards the last part of the climb, trekkers are aided by sections of ropes and long aluminum ladders fitted to the steepest slope. After an hour of strenuous, adrenaline pumping climb, we found ourselves at the summit with a beautiful view of the surrounding area overlooking the rainforest canopy of the National Park and the quaint Batu Niah township. We spent 40 minutes at the summit exploring the area and taking notes of the surrounding vegetation, resting and listening to traditional gong music wafting up the air from the town below, Batu Niah was apparently celebrating Gawai. The entire experience was as close to surreal as one can get at this elevation surrounded by old growth rainforest.

The climb down the limestone hill was as difficult as the climb up and for us it took approximately the same amount of time. Nevertheless, by 3:30pm, we were back in Park HQ, none the worse for wear except for some slight muscle soreness and scuffed trekking shoes.

Most people come to Niah Caves National Park to see the famous neolithic caves and artifacts of a millennia past. The Madu and Bukit Kasut trails offer a different kind of activities - jungle exploration and for the more active, a bit of adventure and adreline pumping sort of fun climbing and scrambling up the steep limestone hill we all know as Bukit Kasut.


Admiring events that took place over geologic time imprinted on rocks exposed on present day.


Carbonate boulders strewn around the forest floor.


Swiftlets nest harvesting station at on one the caves leading to Bukit Kasut summit.


Strangler figs close to overwhelming its gracious host.

Article by Sara Wong and Michael Lim
Photographs by Sara Wong

A short primer on Niah Caves National Park

The Park is "located on the Sungai (river) Niah, about 3 km from the small town of Batu Niah, a 110 km short car journey to the south-west of Miri in northern Sarawak. The trip is shorter via the new coastal highway passing thru quaint townships of Bekenu and Sepupok.

The park was first gazetted as a National Historic Monument in 1958, gazetted as National Park on 23 November 1974 and was published to the public on 1 January 1975.

The Park is one of Sarawak's smaller national parks, but it is certainly one of the most important and has some of the most unusual visitor attractions. The park's main claim to fame is its role as one of the birthplaces of civilisation in the region. The oldest modern human remains discovered in Southeast Asia were found at Niah, making the park one of the most important archaeological sites in the world.

Forty thousand years ago, the Niah Great Cave sheltered human life. Here lies the oldest human remains in Southeast Asia, along with many other relics of prehistoric man. Today the Cave is home only to bats, swiftlets and other specially adapted forms of life. However, a few locals still venture into the dark interior to collect guano (bird and bat droppings used as fertilizer) and bird's nest.

The famous Painted Cave is another highlight of the visit to Niah Cave. Here, little human-like figures drawn in red haematite watch over a gravesite where the bodies of the dead were each laid in its own boat-shaped coffin. The Great Cave and Painted Cave have been declared as National Historical Monuments.

The Caves are accessible via a raised plankwalk that winds through lowland forest vibrant with birds and butterflies. Apart from the Caves, visitors can explore several kilometres of forest trails to feel the richness of tropical rainforests, climb a 400m tall limestone ridge or visit an Iban longhouse located near the Park boundary. Visitors can also rent a boat or walk along the river from Park headquarters to Batu Niah town."

The above description was lifted from Sarawak Forestry Corporation's website on Niah NP.


The neolithic cave paintings discovered in Painted Cave within the Niah Caves complex has been adopted at the emblem for the national park and proudly displayed at the park headquarters. All visitors to the park are required to register at the park office. Information about the park as well as bookings for accomodation and guides can be made here as well.


The park has choice accomodation available, the VIP chalet comes complete with modern trappings of home at $500/nite. Air-conditioned, equipped with a large verandah constructed entirely of belian wood overlooking the main river. This is made for a memorable family weekend stay at the park. Other well maintained chalets come in both AC and fan cooled clean and well-maintained units also constructed entirely of wood.


A new wharf which has just been completed serves as a convenient point to ferry passengers across the river to the park proper. The boat runs daily between 0900hrs to 1930 hrs and cost $1/person each way. Arrangement for pickups past 1930 hrs can be made with the boatman at a reasonable agreed time and rate. The river crossing takes less than 5 minutes. Swimming is not advisable due to the presence of crocodiles in the river.


The museum complex (blue roofed) as view from across the river. The facility holds an interesting array of artifacts discovered within the Niah Caves complex. The structure is built on a raised concrete stilts and built mostly of wood, a perfect place to saunter in the late afternoon to listen to the sounds of the rainforest. White-bellied Sea Eagles, Pied Hornbills and other smaller birds has been sighted from this vantage point.








Typical birds in the park from the top: male Black Hornbill, Chestnut-rumped Babbler, unid. flycatcher, Cream-vented Bulbul, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Pacific Swallow and White-bellied Sea Eagle. Bat Hawks and pittas has been sighted at the park. Other smaller birds such as sunbirds, spider-hunters and barbets are regularly sighted at the accomodation complex.








The park also harbours an interesting array of insect life, a small selection of which is shown above. Butterflies from the top are a West Viscount Tanaecia munda, what's left of a Malayan Jezebel Delias heningia, a Great Mormon Papilio memnon, and a Great Orange Tip Hebomoia glaucippe. The female stick insect (top photo) must have been at least 1.5 ft long compared to her smaller dimunitive male partner.



Other than insects, encounters with reptilians and amphibians like lizards, frogs and snakes are almost guaranteed for visitors with keen eyes.


The well maintained rainforest plankwalk that traverses the 3km walk from the museum complex to the entrance of the Niah Caves complex afford visitors with ample opportunity for memorable encounters with nature without much great effort. There are numerous stopping points along the way for those wanting to break their walk into smaller segments in order to soak in to the max what the Niah forests has on offer.


Trader's Cave.


Stalactite and stalagmite formations in Trader's Cave.



A visit to Niah National Park is incomplete without exploring the cave complex. This is the entrance to the Niah Caves complex after 3km easy trekking on the plankwalk, at the mouth of the Great Cave. From here further forays into Burnt Cave, Moon Cave and Painted Cave can be made. Visitors are encouraged to bring a small torchlight and be equipped with sturdy shoes with a good grip (addidas kampong is footwear of choice for those in the know ... there millions of bats and swiftlets all over the caves system. Swiftlets nest and bat guano are regularly collected by the local people and form an important part of the local economy since the very early days of trade.

We'll see you at the caves?

MNS Miri, May 2009